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Kare Kare
152 Old Brompton Road, London SW5 0BE
 
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THE BIRTH OF THE CHILL-OUT CURRY

Angela Treherne enjoys the mellow ambience of Kare Kare on Old Brompton Road

WHAT do you get when you cross a trendy restaurant, a surfing manager and adventurous chefs with Indian food?

    Kate Kare, in Old Brompton Road, is a new Indian restaurant, for a new generation of curry-lovers.
     It throws all you associate with Indian restaurants out the window. The dining area is light and airy with clean, fresh, white decor and huge expanses of white walls. No flock wallpaper and tacky furnishings.
     The music is between Middle Eastern and club classics. Upstairs has the bar and most of the tables, while the downstairs is a bit more private for parties. There is also a cosy chill-out area - all dark red paint, low tables and comfy seats - for pre- or post-meal drinks and relaxing.
     And they take relaxing so seriously here. Manager Shankar Rayamajhi wants you to take time over a meal, so you enjoy every minute of it. There's no sweeping round your feet or looking at watches after closing time.
    He said: "We are happy to stay open as long as there are people here. No pushing you out the door at closing time. Customers pay to be treated well and have a good experience. We appreciate that and are happy if they are happy."
     This relaxed attitude to management might be a reflection of the personality of the owner - keen surfer Salim Ahmed. He had the idea of combining flavours from all parts of the Indian ocean while catching the waves at his favourite beach - Kare Kare in New Zealand, in 1996. Six years later the restaurant opened, serving "contemporary Indian with a fusion of classic Nepalese flavours".
     The menu is superb and extensive, but Salim told me that he wants additional ideas and suggestions from customers who have travelled in Asia. We were 30 minutes imagining what they would all be like.
Luckily, while deliberating, we had plenty of papadums to keep us going. They were served with five unusual and delicious fresh chutneys and pickles.
     To start, I had gandaki crab - moreish little crab cakes served with their speciality yogurt and tamarind sauce. My friend chose monkfish sekuwa - chunks of smoked and marinated monkfish which melted in the mouth.
     For main course, I went for a "contemporary fusion" option of Namche Jhinga - king prawns in a tasty spicy sauce, served with basmati rice and a generous salad of more than the standard few slices of tomato and iceberg leaves.
     My friend sampled a more traditional option, kasmiri korma. It tasted very different to the kormas we are used to. This was fresh, creamy and coconutty. Both meals went down with a crisp, cold white chardonnay.
  

     We enjoyed our meals so much we left no room for dessert, but the options looked good. As well as the classic kulfi Indian ice cream, there were traditional Indian sweets like Gulubjaman, and - for the less adventurous - a selection of sorbets, ice creams and teas.
     We left full, and impressed. Kare Kare is not what you might expect from an Indian restaurant. The great setting, atmosphere and food make for a memorable night out.
     It's all you love about going for a curry, without the things you hate. Filling and tasty, but fresh and healthy. A winning combination of everyone's favourite traditional takeaway and the fresh unfussy food of the new millennium.
     It will change the way you look at your high street balti house.

Source:
Angela Treherne - Kensington Times, 22/05/02


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